© M Gurney
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Regular similar questions come my way from those learning about Finnish Lapphunds and who are trying to determine if they would suit their lifestyle.
Many of the questions you have may be answered on some of the other information pages on this site. But below is some additional information to those "frequently answered questions" which hopefully is of some help for those researching the breed. Please feel free to send me an email with other questions you may have. |
Do they bark?
I have to admit, this question always has me giggling a little. Ah .... yes!! Every so often I have someone tell me they're heard from others that they are not much of a barker, and I suspect those who have said that have had experience with one of two quieter than average ones and have assumed that is the norm.
Yes, Lappies can be a barky breed. And that is something to consider carefully if you live in an environment with sensitive neighbours or the kinds of activity that is likely to create barking stimuli.
Lappies were meant to use their voice in their traditional work, and even today they cannot pass a traditional instinct test if they don't bark. So that makes for a breed likely to bark when stimulated.
Stimulated can mean a number of things. Cats or possums in your yard. Noise and activity from neighbours. Playing with other dogs. Someone coming to the front door. Bring frustrated because they want to play. All of these are things that are likely to cause your Lappie to bark.
There are quieter individuals, so if barking is likely to be a problem, it is a good idea to ask breeders you are enquiring with just how much the parents and grandparents of the pup bark.
Training is essential to ensure your dog knows when to quieten down, and having an environment where they are not over-stimulated by outside sounds or sights when you are not at home is important.
Yes, Lappies can be a barky breed. And that is something to consider carefully if you live in an environment with sensitive neighbours or the kinds of activity that is likely to create barking stimuli.
Lappies were meant to use their voice in their traditional work, and even today they cannot pass a traditional instinct test if they don't bark. So that makes for a breed likely to bark when stimulated.
Stimulated can mean a number of things. Cats or possums in your yard. Noise and activity from neighbours. Playing with other dogs. Someone coming to the front door. Bring frustrated because they want to play. All of these are things that are likely to cause your Lappie to bark.
There are quieter individuals, so if barking is likely to be a problem, it is a good idea to ask breeders you are enquiring with just how much the parents and grandparents of the pup bark.
Training is essential to ensure your dog knows when to quieten down, and having an environment where they are not over-stimulated by outside sounds or sights when you are not at home is important.
How do they cope with the heat?
Remarkably well. Like us, they usually prefer to be inside in a cool air conditioned place when a heat wave hits, but generally they don't fair too badly in the summer.
They will rest during the heat of the day, seeking out a cool spot to sleep. If this isn't inside, it is likely to be under a shady bush where they can dig a small "nest". As with all dogs, Lappies should never be exercised when it is too hot outside. During summer and hot days, walks should be saved for early in the morning before the day (and ground) heats up, or later at night when things have cooled down.
Plenty of fresh water and cool spots are important.
The Lappie double coat helps insulate it from the weather. They will likely shed a fair bit of under coat coming into hotter weather, and the outer guard coat keeps them protected. For this reason it is important that they are not "shaved off" or trimmed when the weather gets warm as this just takes away the protective properties of their guard coat.
They will rest during the heat of the day, seeking out a cool spot to sleep. If this isn't inside, it is likely to be under a shady bush where they can dig a small "nest". As with all dogs, Lappies should never be exercised when it is too hot outside. During summer and hot days, walks should be saved for early in the morning before the day (and ground) heats up, or later at night when things have cooled down.
Plenty of fresh water and cool spots are important.
The Lappie double coat helps insulate it from the weather. They will likely shed a fair bit of under coat coming into hotter weather, and the outer guard coat keeps them protected. For this reason it is important that they are not "shaved off" or trimmed when the weather gets warm as this just takes away the protective properties of their guard coat.
How do they get on with other dogs?
Most Lappies generally love other dogs - at times too much, which can create a challenge when you are at an obedience class with a young adolescent Lappie who would really prefer to be playing than working with you and will bark hysterically to let everyone know that!! But they are generally a very friendly breed.
Some youngsters don't have the best of manners and can fail to pick up "back off signals" from other dogs, so they need to be watched carefully to ensure they don't inadvertently cause problems for themselves. Others are really good at playing well and giving good calming signals when required.
Their play can be relatively boisterous and sometimes noisy.
Entire dogs can challenge other entire dogs of the same sex, so this is something to watch, particularly with adolescent males going through a testosterone surge who can be seeking to throw their weight around, or could inadvertently cause older dogs to want to put them in their place, or may just react to other dogs "eyeballing" them as if it is a challenge.
With a desexed Lappie, however, you are unlikely to have those management issues to deal with.
If you have a friendly adult dog, you are unlikely to have any issues introducing a Lappie pup into your household. You may have to supervise play for the first little while to ensure that either your adult doesn't scare, overwhelm or hurt your pup, or alternatively that your pup doesn't drive your adult demented. But more often than not they will very quickly become firm friends.
Some youngsters don't have the best of manners and can fail to pick up "back off signals" from other dogs, so they need to be watched carefully to ensure they don't inadvertently cause problems for themselves. Others are really good at playing well and giving good calming signals when required.
Their play can be relatively boisterous and sometimes noisy.
Entire dogs can challenge other entire dogs of the same sex, so this is something to watch, particularly with adolescent males going through a testosterone surge who can be seeking to throw their weight around, or could inadvertently cause older dogs to want to put them in their place, or may just react to other dogs "eyeballing" them as if it is a challenge.
With a desexed Lappie, however, you are unlikely to have those management issues to deal with.
If you have a friendly adult dog, you are unlikely to have any issues introducing a Lappie pup into your household. You may have to supervise play for the first little while to ensure that either your adult doesn't scare, overwhelm or hurt your pup, or alternatively that your pup doesn't drive your adult demented. But more often than not they will very quickly become firm friends.
How do they get on with other small animals?
Lots of Lappies live very successfully with cats, although introductions and early management may be needed with a new excitable pup, particularly if you have a cat who frightens easy. But generally they get along well. Cats outside of the home, however, are likely to be viewed as something to chase!
They do tend to have a strong "chase" instinct. And while they are not the kind of breed likely to do so in an aggressive manner, their drive to chase and play could easily result in the death of a small animal.
For this reason, unless socialised very well as pups with smaller prey animals (rabbits, guinea pigs, poultry for eg) and having been proven totally trustworthy, I would never be comfortable leaving them unsupervised with such animals.
They do tend to have a strong "chase" instinct. And while they are not the kind of breed likely to do so in an aggressive manner, their drive to chase and play could easily result in the death of a small animal.
For this reason, unless socialised very well as pups with smaller prey animals (rabbits, guinea pigs, poultry for eg) and having been proven totally trustworthy, I would never be comfortable leaving them unsupervised with such animals.
Do they dig?
This tends to be variable, depending on the individual. But yes, they can sometimes have a tendency to dig. They will do this for two reasons. As mentioned above, many often like to dig a "nest" to rest in, particularly when hot. And also, many just find digging plain fun!!!
Sometimes giving them an area where you teach them that digging is allowed (by encouraging and playing hide and seek with toys and treats) such as a sandpit, can direct that digging away from your garden. But sometimes you may just have to accept that holes on occasion will appear and either fence off the important garden beds or grin and bear it.
It is a rarer Lappie who digs to escape from fence lines, although I have heard of a few.
Sometimes giving them an area where you teach them that digging is allowed (by encouraging and playing hide and seek with toys and treats) such as a sandpit, can direct that digging away from your garden. But sometimes you may just have to accept that holes on occasion will appear and either fence off the important garden beds or grin and bear it.
It is a rarer Lappie who digs to escape from fence lines, although I have heard of a few.
Do they try and escape?
Most Lappies aren't big escape artists, although I have heard of the occasional one. Generally they may be opportunistic, and if an open door or gate appears they will certainly take themselves off on an adventure.
An unfenced or poorly fenced yard will result in a Lappie wandering, they will never be the stay on the back door step kind of dog. But they don't tend to go out of their way to leave their yard through digging underneath, or scaling over, fences.
A decent sized fence (generally the standard 6 feet) is generally recommended. And if there are holes, or loose fence panels, it is wise to fix them before you get a pup. If you do end up with a pup who digs at fence lines, the usual recommendation is to dig a trench and attach wire which goes into the ground creating a barrier.
An unfenced or poorly fenced yard will result in a Lappie wandering, they will never be the stay on the back door step kind of dog. But they don't tend to go out of their way to leave their yard through digging underneath, or scaling over, fences.
A decent sized fence (generally the standard 6 feet) is generally recommended. And if there are holes, or loose fence panels, it is wise to fix them before you get a pup. If you do end up with a pup who digs at fence lines, the usual recommendation is to dig a trench and attach wire which goes into the ground creating a barrier.
What are their exercise requirements?
They are an active breed, requiring a good amount of physical exercise, but not excessive amounts. A good walk once a day (once physically mature) or a short walk twice a day will keep them fairly happy. They can become running companions if you wish (again, once physically mature), although some will be more inclined for long jogs than others. But long regular runs are not essential to keep a Lappie satisfied.
Mental exercise can often be just as, if not more, important. Training, games, the opportunity to explore new areas and experience new things, are all critical to ensure you don't get a bored, under-stimulated and destructive dog.
It is very important not to overexercise a young, growing pup, so it is important to get guidelines from your breeder on appropriate exercise levels for puppies, to ensure they grow up strong and healthy.
Mental exercise can often be just as, if not more, important. Training, games, the opportunity to explore new areas and experience new things, are all critical to ensure you don't get a bored, under-stimulated and destructive dog.
It is very important not to overexercise a young, growing pup, so it is important to get guidelines from your breeder on appropriate exercise levels for puppies, to ensure they grow up strong and healthy.
How trainable are they?
While Lappies are generally a trainable breed - smart, biddable, and eager to please - a lot does depend on your experience with other breeds and what you are comparing with. I often say that if you lined up all the herding breeds, Lappies would be on the harder to train end of the line, but if you lined up all the northern, spitz breeds, they would be on the easier to train end of the line.
Many are the smartest pup in their puppy class. Others are the naughtiest pup, noisy, unfocused and just wanting to play. While that can depend on the individual pup, it also can depend on your ability to make yourself interesting, and the training interesting and of value.
They do tend to be a "what's in it for me" kind of breed, so need to find training valuable and fun. They can also be fairly soft and handler sensitive, so harsh methods rarely work very well. They are fairly submissive, so will regularly provide you with a lot of signals of submission which can indicate quickly to you if they are feeling pushed and uncertain.
They can have an independent streak, as most spitz breeds do. And many like to take their time and think things through with new exercises or training tasks.
But they are super smart, and have a lot of ability.
They will keep you on your toes, and provide you with a challenge at times. Often training a Lappie can descend into two steps forward, one step back kind of scenarios. But they are a lot of fun, keep you guessing, and teach you a lot about how to read and recognise what is working and what isn't. They are also guaranteed to make you laugh.
Many are the smartest pup in their puppy class. Others are the naughtiest pup, noisy, unfocused and just wanting to play. While that can depend on the individual pup, it also can depend on your ability to make yourself interesting, and the training interesting and of value.
They do tend to be a "what's in it for me" kind of breed, so need to find training valuable and fun. They can also be fairly soft and handler sensitive, so harsh methods rarely work very well. They are fairly submissive, so will regularly provide you with a lot of signals of submission which can indicate quickly to you if they are feeling pushed and uncertain.
They can have an independent streak, as most spitz breeds do. And many like to take their time and think things through with new exercises or training tasks.
But they are super smart, and have a lot of ability.
They will keep you on your toes, and provide you with a challenge at times. Often training a Lappie can descend into two steps forward, one step back kind of scenarios. But they are a lot of fun, keep you guessing, and teach you a lot about how to read and recognise what is working and what isn't. They are also guaranteed to make you laugh.
Can I take them on off lead walks?
This depends a lot on how good a trainer you are. A really reliable recall is a must with a Lappie. They won't be the kind of dog who just stays by your side regardless and are quite happy running and wandering a fair distance from you having adventures.
Traditionally Lappies would need to work independently a fair distance from their handlers, given the size of reindeer herds and the amount of land being worked over. So they naturally are fairly confident being at a distance from you - including completely out of sight - when out on a walk. You may not feel so confident, but they will wonder what all your fuss is about when you think you have lost them.
Training them to stay close and come back immediately when called is really important. As lappies have an independent streak, teaching that reliable recall can be a challenge, and many a Lappie has "lost off lead privileges" at times.
Traditionally Lappies would need to work independently a fair distance from their handlers, given the size of reindeer herds and the amount of land being worked over. So they naturally are fairly confident being at a distance from you - including completely out of sight - when out on a walk. You may not feel so confident, but they will wonder what all your fuss is about when you think you have lost them.
Training them to stay close and come back immediately when called is really important. As lappies have an independent streak, teaching that reliable recall can be a challenge, and many a Lappie has "lost off lead privileges" at times.
Are they suitable for [insert dog sport of choice]?
The majority of dog sports are well suited to Lappies. They are a fantastic, versatile breed, with the physical energy, structure and agility to do reasonably well at most dog sports.
I do often say, however, that you should expect with a Lappie to be competent at many things, but perhaps master at none. They are never going to be the fastest agility breed, or the best lure-coursing breed, or the most reliable breed in the obedience ring, or the most driven flyball breed, or the most naturally gifted herding breed.
All of those sports you can do well at, and have a lot of fun with your Lappie training. They can even win the ring at times, and reach quite high levels. But they are rarely likely to be reliably the "best" and if that is what you are after, you are better off seeking a breed with the reputation of producing the most consistent winners in the particularly sport of your interest.
Training them in the dog sport of your choice may be a bit of a challenge at times, if you are used to a breed considered relatively "easy". However, if you've had breeds which are known to be harder to train in that sport, you will probably find them a breeze!
Most are quite food motivated (although there are certainly individuals who aren't) and respond well to food rewards. Toy motivation (particularly boisterous games of tug) is rarer with Lappies, so if that is your reward of choice you may find them a bit more of a challenge to get that strong drive going.
Lappies can vary considerably in their drive levels - some work really well, some are more comfortable spending the whole day on the couch! If you see a single Lappie with the drive and temperament you want in your next sporting companion, don't assume you can get a pup from anywhere and it will be the same. It is worth talking carefully to breeders about the temperaments of their dogs, and particularly of the parents and other relatives of the litter you are considering.
I do often say, however, that you should expect with a Lappie to be competent at many things, but perhaps master at none. They are never going to be the fastest agility breed, or the best lure-coursing breed, or the most reliable breed in the obedience ring, or the most driven flyball breed, or the most naturally gifted herding breed.
All of those sports you can do well at, and have a lot of fun with your Lappie training. They can even win the ring at times, and reach quite high levels. But they are rarely likely to be reliably the "best" and if that is what you are after, you are better off seeking a breed with the reputation of producing the most consistent winners in the particularly sport of your interest.
Training them in the dog sport of your choice may be a bit of a challenge at times, if you are used to a breed considered relatively "easy". However, if you've had breeds which are known to be harder to train in that sport, you will probably find them a breeze!
Most are quite food motivated (although there are certainly individuals who aren't) and respond well to food rewards. Toy motivation (particularly boisterous games of tug) is rarer with Lappies, so if that is your reward of choice you may find them a bit more of a challenge to get that strong drive going.
Lappies can vary considerably in their drive levels - some work really well, some are more comfortable spending the whole day on the couch! If you see a single Lappie with the drive and temperament you want in your next sporting companion, don't assume you can get a pup from anywhere and it will be the same. It is worth talking carefully to breeders about the temperaments of their dogs, and particularly of the parents and other relatives of the litter you are considering.
Do you breed, or know anyone who breeds [x colour]?
It would be an unusual breeder indeed who specifically breeds for colour, and to be perfectly frank if you find one you should probably run in the other direction. Breeders will consider type, temperament and health long before colour.
Some of the rarer colours are harder than others to predict in litters, and they have different genetics. Even one parent being the colour you are after is no predictor that pups will definitely be born that colour (depending on which one you are talking about). The colour being born in litters in that kennel in the past may also not be a predictor.
If a breeder knows through experience the genetic likelihood of particularly colours in a litter, they may be able to give you an idea. But in some cases this isn't known and certain colours can turn up unexpectedly (or not turn up when expected).
None of that is not to say you can't get the colour of your choice, but it does mean that you could very well have a long wait, or be in the right place at the right time. If that is what you really want, and you are prepared for that wait, then the strongest advice I can give you it to contact as many breeders as possible and stay in contact so that when your perfect pup arrives, you are in that right place at the right time.
If you have some fairly strong specific requirements for your pup in terms of nature, temperament, suitability for showing, dog sports, or some other activity, then getting a pup who meets those as well as being of a rarer colour, is going to be even more difficult. You may need to decide which you are prepared to sacrifice.
Some of the rarer colours are harder than others to predict in litters, and they have different genetics. Even one parent being the colour you are after is no predictor that pups will definitely be born that colour (depending on which one you are talking about). The colour being born in litters in that kennel in the past may also not be a predictor.
If a breeder knows through experience the genetic likelihood of particularly colours in a litter, they may be able to give you an idea. But in some cases this isn't known and certain colours can turn up unexpectedly (or not turn up when expected).
None of that is not to say you can't get the colour of your choice, but it does mean that you could very well have a long wait, or be in the right place at the right time. If that is what you really want, and you are prepared for that wait, then the strongest advice I can give you it to contact as many breeders as possible and stay in contact so that when your perfect pup arrives, you are in that right place at the right time.
If you have some fairly strong specific requirements for your pup in terms of nature, temperament, suitability for showing, dog sports, or some other activity, then getting a pup who meets those as well as being of a rarer colour, is going to be even more difficult. You may need to decide which you are prepared to sacrifice.
Do they have special feeding requirements?
Lappies don't have any particular feeding requirements over and above the good nutrition required for any working breed. I, and most other breeders, generally recommend a good quality premium dry dog food (ie not a supermarket brand). If you are going to feed a raw diet, then it is just important that you know what you are doing to ensure it is appropriately balanced.
Most owners and breeder will have their own preferences as to brand of food that they have found works best for their dogs. But individuals can be different. I have found that coat quality can be variable according to the diet chosen, so that is something to watch closely.
Lappies aren't huge eaters, and most don't need as much as their owners (or they!) think they do, so it is often important to watch that they are not overfed as they can quickly become overweight.
Breeders will almost always provide detailed feeding guidance to new owners picking up puppies, and generally a quantity of the food they have been weaned on to get you through the first little while.
Most owners and breeder will have their own preferences as to brand of food that they have found works best for their dogs. But individuals can be different. I have found that coat quality can be variable according to the diet chosen, so that is something to watch closely.
Lappies aren't huge eaters, and most don't need as much as their owners (or they!) think they do, so it is often important to watch that they are not overfed as they can quickly become overweight.
Breeders will almost always provide detailed feeding guidance to new owners picking up puppies, and generally a quantity of the food they have been weaned on to get you through the first little while.
How big do they get?
While the general stock-standard answer to this question is "medium, about border collie size", there is actually a large variability in breed size. This is important to know and understand if you have specific size preferences. The largest male (within standard) will be 52cm from the ground to the shoulder, while the smallest female will be 41cm. That is actually quite a large difference, so people can be surprised and shocked if they have seen one and assumed that is "normal" and then see another.
If you only see one or two Lappies and immediately think they are the perfect size for what you are after, it is a good idea to ask the owner (if they know) if they are on the smaller end of the scale, the bigger end, or about middle for the breed. Then when talking to breeders you can check with them the same question for their breeding. They may not be able to give you a guaranteed answer, because even within litters size can vary. But they should at least be able to give you an idea if they definitely know their breeding is likely to be a different size from what you are after.
If you only see one or two Lappies and immediately think they are the perfect size for what you are after, it is a good idea to ask the owner (if they know) if they are on the smaller end of the scale, the bigger end, or about middle for the breed. Then when talking to breeders you can check with them the same question for their breeding. They may not be able to give you a guaranteed answer, because even within litters size can vary. But they should at least be able to give you an idea if they definitely know their breeding is likely to be a different size from what you are after.
How are they with children?
Lappies as a breed are generally considered excellent with children. They for the most part have a natural affinity with them, although those certainly who have grown up with minimal exposure may as adults be more unsure, particularly with toddlers or children with little "dog sense".
As a breed they traditionally would live closely with the Sami families, and so have developed very much as a "family dog" as much as a working dog. In modern times they are quite popular with families looking for a middle sized dog with a good reputation with children.
But perhaps the question should be, how are your children with dogs?
It is important to always remember that dogs are dogs, regardless of breed and care should always be taken when children and dogs mix together. Supervision doesn't just mean watching, but being aware of your dog's reaction to the behaviour of children and intervening if you see them anxious or uncomfortable. Children grabbing and climbing on dogs (who will almost always look uncomfortable) is never funny, and asking for trouble. A dog who bites has usually given plenty of signals and warnings that they are scared or anxious before it gets to that point. The last resort of a bite, when all of their warnings have been ignored, is absolutely natural dog behaviour. Children, particularly young children, are notoriously bad at reading those signals, and often don't understand that our normal primate behaviours in a social setting are very different from the normal canine behaviours. They need to be taught how to behave appropriately with the dogs in their lives, even the ones you trust completely.
As a breed they traditionally would live closely with the Sami families, and so have developed very much as a "family dog" as much as a working dog. In modern times they are quite popular with families looking for a middle sized dog with a good reputation with children.
But perhaps the question should be, how are your children with dogs?
It is important to always remember that dogs are dogs, regardless of breed and care should always be taken when children and dogs mix together. Supervision doesn't just mean watching, but being aware of your dog's reaction to the behaviour of children and intervening if you see them anxious or uncomfortable. Children grabbing and climbing on dogs (who will almost always look uncomfortable) is never funny, and asking for trouble. A dog who bites has usually given plenty of signals and warnings that they are scared or anxious before it gets to that point. The last resort of a bite, when all of their warnings have been ignored, is absolutely natural dog behaviour. Children, particularly young children, are notoriously bad at reading those signals, and often don't understand that our normal primate behaviours in a social setting are very different from the normal canine behaviours. They need to be taught how to behave appropriately with the dogs in their lives, even the ones you trust completely.
Are they suitable for apartment living?
This is a very tricky question to answer without a good understanding of your lifestyle. As a general rule I would normally say no, particularly when they are young and need plenty of outdoor time, physical and mental stimulation. They are a working breed at the end of the day.
However, it does depend a bit on how much work you are prepared to put in. Remembering that your good intentions may not translate into reality when your cute puppy has grown, and the busy lives we all lead kick in.
If your household works full time, and your puppy is likely to be left for long periods of the day, I would say that a Lappie in an apartment is definitely not a good idea.
However, if you work from home and are generally around a lot of the time, are committed to getting out with your pup multiple times a day, and will be making them completely part of your life where they go with you as you are out and about, then it is possible that you can make it work.
But please be concious if that lifestyle is likely to change in the next few years. For example, you might be currently studying and spending long hours at home, but what will happen when you graduate and may be working full time again.
It will be important that they have toys which can keep their mind stimulated (home alone type toys), plenty of exercise, training work every day, and safe places they can go to run and play and explore. The other careful consideration is generally apartment living makes for more challenge with toilet training. Remember that puppies need to be taken out to the toilet every hour, and that's rain, hail and shine.
However, it does depend a bit on how much work you are prepared to put in. Remembering that your good intentions may not translate into reality when your cute puppy has grown, and the busy lives we all lead kick in.
If your household works full time, and your puppy is likely to be left for long periods of the day, I would say that a Lappie in an apartment is definitely not a good idea.
However, if you work from home and are generally around a lot of the time, are committed to getting out with your pup multiple times a day, and will be making them completely part of your life where they go with you as you are out and about, then it is possible that you can make it work.
But please be concious if that lifestyle is likely to change in the next few years. For example, you might be currently studying and spending long hours at home, but what will happen when you graduate and may be working full time again.
It will be important that they have toys which can keep their mind stimulated (home alone type toys), plenty of exercise, training work every day, and safe places they can go to run and play and explore. The other careful consideration is generally apartment living makes for more challenge with toilet training. Remember that puppies need to be taken out to the toilet every hour, and that's rain, hail and shine.
Can they be left alone for long periods?
Lappies aren't a breed that tend to typically suffer from separation anxiety, but at the same time they are social animals with a very strong need to be with their family involved in their day to day lives. There are plenty of Lappie owners who work full time, and find a way to meet the needs of their dogs. But almost certainly for it to be successful, you need to be prepared to spend plenty of time with your Lappie when you are home - playing with them, walking them, training them, and just hanging out together. If your lifestyle is still one where you are at work every day, busy on weekends, and out several nights a week, please don't consider a dog just yet.! If you are likely to give a dog a lifestyle where they are home in the backyard all day, left outside when you are home, and maybe just walked once a day, again I would suggest your lifestyle is not one that suits a Lappie.
If you do have a "working week at home alone Lappie" You will also need to ensure they have plenty to do when you aren't at home - at home toys to keep them occupied and provide some of those destructive tendencies an acceptable outlet.
Often a good solution is to provide a mixed week. Maybe a family member or friend can take care of your dog once a week, a day at doggie daycare once or twice a fortnight, a dog walker on occasions. These are some of the ways to keep the lifestyle of your dog active and engaged and avoid boredom.
Many find in the end that providing company through a second dog is the best solution. But for a number of reasons, it is best to not get two pups at once, but wait until the first is a bit more mature before providing them with a brother or sister.
If you do have a "working week at home alone Lappie" You will also need to ensure they have plenty to do when you aren't at home - at home toys to keep them occupied and provide some of those destructive tendencies an acceptable outlet.
Often a good solution is to provide a mixed week. Maybe a family member or friend can take care of your dog once a week, a day at doggie daycare once or twice a fortnight, a dog walker on occasions. These are some of the ways to keep the lifestyle of your dog active and engaged and avoid boredom.
Many find in the end that providing company through a second dog is the best solution. But for a number of reasons, it is best to not get two pups at once, but wait until the first is a bit more mature before providing them with a brother or sister.
How often do they need a bath?
Very rarely! Generally unless my dogs are being shown, they tend to see a bath rarely and don't need one very often. They have a coat which doesn't tend to have an odour, and regular bathing can strip the natural oils in the coat.
A bath and blow dry can however be a big advantage when they have been blowing coat and you want to get the last of the lifting undercoat out.
Of course, all of that goes out the window if they have been rolling in offensive (to humans!) items and stink to high heavens! If that is the case, a bath is the only solution.
But if they are just muddy the best solution is wait for them to dry and the dirt will easily brush out.
A bath and blow dry can however be a big advantage when they have been blowing coat and you want to get the last of the lifting undercoat out.
Of course, all of that goes out the window if they have been rolling in offensive (to humans!) items and stink to high heavens! If that is the case, a bath is the only solution.
But if they are just muddy the best solution is wait for them to dry and the dirt will easily brush out.
How much grooming do they need?
Typically a lappie coat is easier to care for than it looks on first glance. It is not a coat that mats easily or regularly, so with a little bit of work can be kept beautiful quite easily.
My general rule of thumb answer to this question is that a half hour maintenance groom once a week is usually sufficient to keep them in good condition, with more grooming required during those times when they are shedding.
There are a few variations to this theme. Partly because coat type can vary a fair amount across the breed. I've seen some with super easy coats, requiring very little work. And others with absolutely enormous coats that I would shudder at myself. It can sometimes be easier to have an idea of what you are after by asking how much work the coat of the relatives of your potential pup takes.
The other issue to be aware of, which makes a straight answer tricky, is that all of our "rules" on what Lappie coats are like are based on entire (non desexed) animals where hormones play a part in coat type and shedding. Coats on both males and females who have been desexed will almost always be bigger, thicker and softer than if the same dog was entire, and sometimes will shed more often and/or coat won't "lift out" quite as easily, all of which makes it a bit harder to maintain.
The difficulty most owners have with grooming is not the amount required, but a struggle with having their dog be still for grooming. It is important to put in the work training them as youngsters to tolerate grooming well (and this obviously includes nail trimming as well). Good quality combs and brushes can make a big difference here as well as they are gentler and more effective.
At the end of the day they are a coated breed, so you should definitely expect some work.
My general rule of thumb answer to this question is that a half hour maintenance groom once a week is usually sufficient to keep them in good condition, with more grooming required during those times when they are shedding.
There are a few variations to this theme. Partly because coat type can vary a fair amount across the breed. I've seen some with super easy coats, requiring very little work. And others with absolutely enormous coats that I would shudder at myself. It can sometimes be easier to have an idea of what you are after by asking how much work the coat of the relatives of your potential pup takes.
The other issue to be aware of, which makes a straight answer tricky, is that all of our "rules" on what Lappie coats are like are based on entire (non desexed) animals where hormones play a part in coat type and shedding. Coats on both males and females who have been desexed will almost always be bigger, thicker and softer than if the same dog was entire, and sometimes will shed more often and/or coat won't "lift out" quite as easily, all of which makes it a bit harder to maintain.
The difficulty most owners have with grooming is not the amount required, but a struggle with having their dog be still for grooming. It is important to put in the work training them as youngsters to tolerate grooming well (and this obviously includes nail trimming as well). Good quality combs and brushes can make a big difference here as well as they are gentler and more effective.
At the end of the day they are a coated breed, so you should definitely expect some work.
Do they shed?
Yes, without any question yes. Lappies are a double coated breed, so will regularly drop, blow or "shed" their undercoat. And when this happens there is a LOT of coat loss which can go on for several weeks, although it does lift out very easily. It is much easier to clean up than typical dog hair, however, clumping and lifting off carpets fairly easily.
While they are young, when they shed depends more on their age. They will start to lose puppy coat and gradually form guard coat (usually with a shiny band forming down the middle of the back at first) around about 4-6 months of age, although this can vary quite a lot. Then they will have what we refer to as their "junior blow" around about 9-18 months of age. This is an ugly period when they can look quite bald and leggy having obtained full adult height but not the breadth or coat of an adult.
After they form a full adult coat they will slip into a regular pattern. Males will typically blow their undercoat once a year - generally coming into summer, although some have a reverse pattern for some reason. They may also have a smaller coat drop heading into the opposite season. Females will blow their coat according to their hormone cycle (so twice a year) - some directly before they come into season, others half way through their cycle.
Of course, that is based on an entire male or female. Desexing changes coat type, and can sometimes cause what we call "rolling coat" where there is more regular coat loss and growth all year around, or in other cases can mean the lifting undercoat takes a bit more effort to remove.
While they are young, when they shed depends more on their age. They will start to lose puppy coat and gradually form guard coat (usually with a shiny band forming down the middle of the back at first) around about 4-6 months of age, although this can vary quite a lot. Then they will have what we refer to as their "junior blow" around about 9-18 months of age. This is an ugly period when they can look quite bald and leggy having obtained full adult height but not the breadth or coat of an adult.
After they form a full adult coat they will slip into a regular pattern. Males will typically blow their undercoat once a year - generally coming into summer, although some have a reverse pattern for some reason. They may also have a smaller coat drop heading into the opposite season. Females will blow their coat according to their hormone cycle (so twice a year) - some directly before they come into season, others half way through their cycle.
Of course, that is based on an entire male or female. Desexing changes coat type, and can sometimes cause what we call "rolling coat" where there is more regular coat loss and growth all year around, or in other cases can mean the lifting undercoat takes a bit more effort to remove.
If you have any further questions that you think should be added to this list, please let me know
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